CWhatWatch

Continued from last week, Which Watch? Japan Fall 2024 – Part 1

Grand Seiko and Credor
The big guns. Let’s be honest, when someone says they are getting a watch in Japan, there’s a pretty high chance it’s going to be a Grand Seiko. But truthfully, this is not a disparaging comment. Grand Seiko offers so much in terms of design, technology, and yes, even value at times. Credor is the interesting final tier of Seiko products. While they are definitely known for stunning watches well into the 6-digit price point, they also have offerings that are much closer in pricing to Grand Seiko.

SBGX341

I’ve always been intrigued with the more “tool watch” side of Grand Seiko. Right now, the SBGX341 has my attention due to the unique case and bi-color lume. While the watch does feature some orange highlights, overall it is quite neutral and probably good for daily wear.

SBGC201

When I first started collecting watches, I hated the chronograph. Something about the pushers always turned me off. Well, times have changed. I find myself increasingly enamored by chronograph models. Save the Tentagraph, the Grand Seiko offering would be the SBGC201. Spring Drive, chronograph, GMT – what else is there to say? This is a unique combination of elements and does present some value for the money. While this Grand Seiko does not feature a special dial like the more popular models, the blue and red hands really pop well on the off-white dial.

SBGH271

My final Grand Seiko option is really a series of watches. I have really been interested in the 62GS case. Here I have pictured the ‘Rikka’ early summer model in a beautiful green dial. I love the way the side of the case just flows while having a wholly angular lug construction. The most unique part of the case, however, is the bezel-less construction. The sapphire crystal is set directly into the case and really helps the amazing dial stand out even more. I also chose the automatic mechanical variant because I already have a 9F quartz and a Spring Drive model.

GCLX999 and GCLP995

Integrated bracelet watches are hot right now and the GCLX999, to me, represents an amazing integrated bracelet offering. It also features a dial reminiscent of the absolutely amazing, and expensive, Eichi II. The GCLP995 looks plain. Honestly, it is a plain watch, but that doesn’t stop me pining for it. The small details make this watch for me. The slender stick hour markers, the blued second hand, the greyscale gradient power reserve meter, and the off-white backgrounds of the big date numerals. It’s also super thin and comes with a great looking bracelet. To be fair, it’s not likely that I will get either of these watches. From what I understand, they are out of production and likely to be quite expensive. But if I saw them in person and the moment took me, who knows…

Minase
Minase is, by far, one of my favorite brands. When I purchased my Divido, it was the first time I spent that kind of money on anything. To be honest, I still can’t believe I bought it. But I am glad I did, it is an amazing watch with truly unique construction. I am planning to write a long term review on it, but that doesn’t mean I can’t add another Minase before then!

M3 Masterpiece

This is probably the simplest looking watch Minase produces. As of right now, it is not available on the english version of their site. From what I understand, it is a Japan-only legacy model that you can have customized. I think there is one physical store that has them on display in Tokyo, I might need to pay them a visit…

5 Windows

Ah, finally, a square watch. They aren’t for everyone, but boy, is this one unique. This watch speaks to the Buddhist tradition in that the four sides of the watch represent the 4 pains in life. To be born, to grow old, to get sick, and to die… a tad morbid, I know. But this also serves as a reminder of the good things in life and to enjoy those moments. I have also seen that there is a rare variant with a power reserve indicator instead of a date wheel– that would be my pick.

Orient/Kuoe/Others
Not to downplay any of these brands, I have bundled a few other brands here. More so to finally bring this article to an end. There are so many other brands I am interested in that I could not possibly list them all here.

RK-AZ0102N

One of my biggest pet peeves related to watches is a poorly done skeleton watch. There are many watches that try to look more expensive by skeletonizing for the sake of skeletonizing. To me, this Orient Star is one of the few skeleton watches that does it well. There is also a more classically styled variant with a gold-toned movement that might be worth checking out.

Old Smith 90-001 and Royal Smith 90-008

Kuoe is an interesting brand. Their watches trend toward a smaller, more traditional sizing. The most affordable of these is the Old Smith 90-001. I am a sucker for a small seconds subdial and would love to add this to the collection. On the other end of the spectrum is the Royal Smith 90-008. This watch is an even smaller 34mm in diameter, but features a more unique case style. A bit of a rounded square, it looks like this case might wear bigger than its dimensions state. I also love the Breguet style numerals and option for gold dial furniture.

Vintage
From what I hear–more than any other place in the world–Japan is the place to be when looking for vintage watches. At the end of the day, watch collecting is a hobby and Japan is a place with extreme hobby culture. I am looking forward to finding some obscure vintage Seiko or even some other brands. I’ve always wanted a vintage Cartier–perhaps this trip will be as good a time as any to finally take the plunge.

*All images belong to their respective owners.