CWhatWatch

When I decided the time was finally right to cross the 4-digit price threshold, I had a hell of a time deciding what to get. Did I want to go Swiss? Japanese? German? What style of watch did I want? A diver? A dress watch? What’s more, I started to pay attention to how brands are perceived. Of course, I knew I should just buy whatever I liked, but if the brand stood for something positive it was a definite plus. In a hobby that is dominated by large corporations, I decided to take a look at an independent Swiss brand. Oris ultimately won me over with its unique stable of offerings and dedication to sustainability, support of humanitarian projects, and wildlife preservation efforts. In the end, I chose to purchase the Oris Aquis Calibre 400. The watch features a solid build with unique integrated bracelet construction and their next generation of movement – the Calibre 400.

When I first handled the watch, I thought to myself, “how can a watch look so generic but so unique at the same time?” Of course, I mean this in the most positive way possible. All of the design hallmarks of a dive watch are present here. The watch features a beautiful blue colored dial with white indices, maximizing legibility both underwater and topside. Furthermore, on this deep blue dial sits a set of wonderfully legible hands mirroring the same finishing as on the hour markers. The ubiquitous dive time bezel is also present here, featuring a ceramic insert with a lume pip at 12 o’clock. A large, sturdy crown is flanked on both sides by protective crown guards, to shield it from inadvertent knocks while diving or doorknobs while… not diving.

So what sets this watch apart from other dive watches? What gives this watch its character is its integrated bracelet construction. I didn’t know it at the time, but integrated bracelet watches would see a resurgence. To me, it was just an interesting variation on an infinitely repeated design. For the Aquis, Oris has constructed a case with large and strong looking lugs that secure a bracelet or strap using a bar that is screwed in place. From these lugs flows an eminently comfortable bracelet. Coming from watches where the bracelet only tapers a few millimeters, the taper on the Aquis goes from roughly 24mm at the lugs to 18mm at the clasp. The bracelet also tapers in vertical height, but not in a disconcerting way. This thinness allows the links to drape on the wrist really well. The short, stout lugs in combination with the fantastic bracelet make for a comfortable wearing experience.

The other main selling point for this model is the in-house Calibre 400 movement. Oris calls particular attention to this movement’s five day power reserve and its high magnetic resistance. With its long power reserve, the Aquis can keep accurate time even when not being worn for a period of a few days. You can take the watch off on Friday and not worry about setting the time when you decide to wear it again on Monday. By using a number of anti-magnetic components, Oris has further assured that the watch will not lose accuracy even when worn in the presence of a magnetic field. Of course, I should not fail to mention that a portrait of the Oris Bear mascot is also present on the movement.

As I alluded to earlier, another reason that made it an easy decision to choose Oris is their dedication to philanthropic initiatives. In many cases, their inclusion in these projects is tied to a special edition of a watch. It doesn’t hurt that these watches are often some of the most visually appealing colorways they offer. For example, the Great Barrier Reef edition of the Aquis calls attention to Oris’s partnership with the Reef Restoration Foundation to plant coral off the shore of Cairns, Australia. In the ongoing battle against ocean plastic, Oris has also developed an Aquis featuring a dial made of recycled bottles. Due to manufacturing processes, each dial promises to be visually unique. Another great example is the Roberto Clemente edition of the Big Crown Pointer Date. With the limited edition, Oris pays tribute to Roberto Clemente’s humanitarian efforts as well as the MLB’s Roberto Clemente Award, “bestowed annually to the player who best represents the game of Baseball through extraordinary character, community involvement, philanthropy and positive contributions, both on and off the field.”

The unique design, the rock solid construction, the modern in-house movement, and the dedication to make positive change in the world – these elements all come together to make Oris a great brand to support. The Oris Aquis was my first step into a larger realm of watch collecting. However, in my time with the watch I have noticed that in actuality, it does so many things well that there is little reason to move on to an even higher price point.

Reference	01 400 7763 4135-07 8 24 09PEB
MSRP	$3,700.00
Case Size	43.5mm
Lug-to-Lug	50mm
Lug Width	N/A, Integrated Bracelet
Materials	Stainless Steel, Ceramic