CWhatWatch

Introducing a new segment called “Focus Fridays,” where we take a closer look at a specific part or look at the construction of a particular watch.

For our first installment we are going to look at a few different examples of dive bezels. In the most basic sense, timing bezels on dive watches are ways for the user to keep track of elapsed time. For divers, this would most likely be elapsed time underwater or “bottom time.” For us non-divers, a more practical use would be something like timing a workout or tracking how long a certain task takes you. Bezels come in many different variations to suit different needs. Let’s take a look at a few:

Aluminum, Orient Mako XL

Aluminum bezels are common on many older dive watches. Lightweight and cheap to produce, they were the perfect choice for a watch that would be used in extreme conditions. My example is colored black, but they can be any shade of color. This bezel’s numerals are in relief against the black painted portions. These bare sections help reflect light, aiding in legibility. In general, aluminum bezels will begin to fade with use, giving the watch some character or patina.

Steel, Seiko SRPA79

This watch features a fully steel bezel. Oftentimes these bezels are finished similarly to the watch case–brushed, in this example. Instead of having colored partitions, the steel bezel uses the raw metal to contrast with the paint filled minute demarcations. In my opinion, the use of a steel bezel makes the watch look a bit smaller by allowing the dial to stand out more. This bezel shows its lean towards professional usage by featuring markings at every minute.

Ceramic, E.C.Andersson Calypso Denise Date

Ceramic, the current gold standard for bezel inserts. Virtually unscratchable and available in a growing number of colors, a ceramic bezel can see heavy use for years without showing the slightest hint of damage. I think it also lends a really modern feel to any watch, contributing sharp lines to the look of a watch. This bezel also features a cardinal direction at the 30 minute mark, meaning that when this bezel is used in conjunction with the sun, it can help orient a lost hiker.

Sapphire, Jenny Caribbean 300

Finally, we have the sapphire bezel. Sapphire bezels are usually used to overlay a complex graphic, such as on this Jenny Caribbean that features a decompression timing scale. The graphic is quite busy, with three separate tracks. The sapphire bezel cap provides a clear scratch resistant surface to view the numerals underneath. A sapphire bezel is also the best modern imitation to the original bakelite bezels that adorned the original dive watches of the past. It can give a watch a vintage feel while also providing modern durability.